As Autumn descends and seasons start to transition a trip to the river brings mixed emotions. Recent heavy rain has brought a tinge of colour to the river and there is hope of salmon and sea trout. The lower Taw and Torridge are both coloured and unfishable and so I have headed to a stretch of fishing on a tributary of the Taw.
I have thrown a heavy rod into the back of the car just in case I see a salmon but it’s the wild browns that I am seeking today with my ultra-light Snowbee Classic, a 4 wt thistledown line and a weighted nymph set up.
It is a delight to travel light to river and wander the bank flicking the nymphs into likely runs, pots and pools.
A cool North West Wind is sweeping clouds across the blue sky. Swallows and martins are swooping low over the grass undoubtedly feeding hard in preparation for their incredible migration to warmer climes. Large numbers of pheasants are strutting their stuff in the riverside fields oblivious to the rituals that await in October when the shooting season commences.
I work my way slowly up river and fail to connect over the first section. I change to a smaller nymph and shorten my leader slightly as the heavy nymph is catching the bottom too frequently.
I extend the line casting up and watching the bright orange section of my furled leader. I detect a twitch lift the rod and feel the vibrant life of a small brownie on the line. It comes off after a few seconds but my confidence is boosted and I fish on with renewed positivity.
A few casts later and a spirited trout of perhaps 6” is brought to hand and briefly admired.
Time is ebbing away as I reach my favourite pool and I work my way up working the nymph through the familiar waters. Connection comes as expected as a fine wild brown of perhaps 10” is brought to the net. I extract a further two beautiful wild browns of similar size but each is very different. Their flanks a sublime blend of rich colours, olives, golds, bronze and crimson. Their colours blending with the autumn hues to create a palette to please the most discerning artists eye.
I leave the river determined to return again before the season ends in a couple of weeks. Trouble is there are bass, mullet, tope and maybe a salmon calling from elsewhere. But still that constant beauty of the wild brown trout remains always there a reassuring presence for the past fifty odd years.
The below report gives a fasicnating insight into the complex marine eco=systems that surround us. Well worth a look through.
The State of the South-West’s Seas Report
‘It was an astounding year for marine life in south-west England – but not everywhere.’
Every year brings exciting and interesting observations of marine life and environmental conditions that help us to understand how the marine environment ‘works’, how it is changing and whether management of human activities and impacts is making a difference to the health of our seas. Capturing and interpreting those observations and activities is what the group of specialists reporting in the ‘South-West Marine Ecosystems in 2023’ do. Their report on 2023 has just been published.
During 2023, we have seen a species new to science being identified in south-west waters, an unprecedented bloom of string-like gelatinous plankton accompanied by dinner-plate sized jellyfish popping-up in late August and proof that ‘common’ (Mediterranean) octopus are breeding in our waters. Seawater temperatures during 2023 were warmer but there were no spectacular impacts – just some range extensions of southern species already here. Whilst there were no additional non-native species found in 2023, some of the ones that are already here increased in abundance and extended their distribution. There are increased sightings of whales and dolphins and some unusual fish species have been caught or sighted. 2023 saw the most turtles recorded in the south-west area for nine years. 2023 saw continued increases in burrow-nesting seabirds and auks: both continuing to benefit from rat eradication on Scilly and Lundy.
Changes that occurred or started some years ago persist – examples are the recovery of spiny lobsters after local extermination in the 1960s and 1970s, and the return of bluefin tuna to south-west waters.
Numbers of seals are ‘steady’ but more seals were recorded dead across Cornwall in 2023 than born and entanglement in litter and disturbance by human activity remains a concern.
There are ‘old friends’ that the interested public may think are signs of warming or changing seas but which have in fact been known from our waters for more than 200 years – such as the tropical-looking grey trigger fish and slipper lobsters.
Meanwhile, some seabed marine life is not looking as vibrant as in previous years. One example is a cold-water species, the spectacular and colourful plumose anemones – abundance seems to have reduced dramatically in inshore areas of the mainland coast but so also, it seems likely, have many other sea anemone species. Also, a group of hydroids (relatives of sea anemones) collectively known as ‘flower-head hydroids’ seem to be much less abundant in enclosed waters at least. Marine life at Lundy continues to be in poor condition compared to the mid-1980s and there is no clear sign (yet) of recovery of populations of the nationally rare sunset cup coral around the island.
The report is the ninth report in the series. It includes detailed chapters on oceanography and storms, plankton, the seashore and seabed, fish and turtles, coastal birds, seals, whales, dolphins and porpoises. Management chapters include fisheries, marine planning, marine protected areas, water pollution and plastics pollution. Webinars on these topics for 2023 can be viewed on this YouTube channel
The report, published by the Plymouth-based Marine Biological Association, reflects the work of both hundreds of volunteer citizen scientists and professionals working in the south-west. This summary of conclusions below is from the report.
Oceanography. The year started with relatively warm conditions throughout the water column with temperatures around 9.5 °C off Plymouth. This cooled to the minimum recorded temperature (for 2023) in mid-March of 9.3 °C. June 2023 was noteworthy in that sea surface temperatures were 2 – 3 °C above the long-term (1991-2020) mean in the Celtic Sea and 1 – 2 °C above the long-term mean in the western English Channel. By late June off Plymouth, surface waters were around 17.8°C and, at depths below 30 m, around 13.9 °C; both associated with a sustained meteorological (and marine) heat wave. Contact: Tim Smyth [email protected]
Storms. The patterns of storms in the spring of 2023 were unremarkable but were more normal in the autumn of 2023 and in the winter of 2023 to 2024. There were very few named storms in the January – April period of 2023. The impact on natural systems, species and habitats was on the unremarkable side of normal, but seal pups and juveniles were seriously affected by the autumn storms in 2023. Contact: [email protected]
Plankton. There were unusual reports in terms of numbers and geographic extent of both salps (colonial seasquirts) and hydrozoan ‘Crystal Jellyfish’ Aequorea sp(p) in late summer in the English Channel. Whilst blooms of both have previously been recorded, they have not been concurrently reported at so many different locations. Sightings of true jellyfish in 2023 revealed similar patterns to those seen in previous years with barrel jellyfish making a return, having been only rarely reported in 2022. Contact: Angus Atkinson (for general plankton): [email protected] and Jeanette Sanders (for observations of jellyfish): [email protected] ; South Devon Jellyfish Survey
Seashore and seabed marinelife. There were no increases in extent or abundance of warm water species that might suggest significant climate change effects although a record of eggs of a Common (‘Mediterranean’) Octopus suggests that they are breeding in our waters. There were declines in the occurrence and abundance of some species including, conspicuously for divers, of cold-water Plumose Anemones in inshore areas. Contact: Keith Hiscock[email protected]
Fish.Sharks. On 1st May, a c. 293 cm subadult female Smalltooth Sand Tiger Shark was found floating dead off Lyme Regis. The observation followed one found stranded in Hampshire and about 320 km north of any previous record. Bony fish. The recent pattern of changes continues with several less familiar species becoming more established around south-west England: these include variable blennies, combers and axillary sea breams. Contacts: Douglas Herdson [email protected] and Simon Thomas (sharks and rays) [email protected]
Reptiles. 2023 saw the most turtles recorded in the south-west area for nine years. The majority of the reports were of juvenile Loggerhead or Kemp’s Ridley turtles most of which were ‘cold shocked’. Contact: Douglas Herdson [email protected].
Marine. and coastal birds. 2023 saw continued increases in burrow-nesting seabirds and auks: both continuing to benefit from rat eradication on Scilly and Lundy. HPAI (‘bird flu’) badly affected terns and black-headed gulls in Dorset, but there was good news for sea-watchers with thousands of southern-breeding shearwaters flooding into the south-west in late summer. This included an estimated 16,000 Cory’s shearwaters in one day off Scilly. Contact: Alex Banks [email protected]
Seals. More seals were recorded dead across Cornwall in 2023 than born (half the dead seals were less than a year old) The largest seal disturbance on record and caused directly by people, saw 250 seals stampede off two adjacent SSSI beaches resulting in an enforcement letter from Natural England. Contact: Sue Sayer – [email protected]
Whales, dolphins & porpoises. There continued to be high numbers of cetaceans inshore in 2023. Since 2015 there have been marked increases in many cetacean species in inshore waters. There is limited ongoing research investigating this shift and cetacean research in the UK continues to be poorly funded. Contact: Duncan Jones [email protected] (toothed whales and dolphins) and Dan Jarvis (Baleen Whales) – [email protected]
Fisheries. In 2023, the landings of many traditional fisheries such as brown crab and mackerel continued to decline, whilst landings for other species such as crawfish and spurdog increased as a result of stock recovery. Analysis undertaken by the MMO showed an overall reduction in the quantities of fish and shellfish landed in the south-west since 2016. It is likely that climate change will continue to benefit some species, such as black seabream, red mullet and anchovy and to result in declines of some other species, such as lemon sole, Atlantic cod, haddock and megrim. Contact: [email protected]
Marine protected areas. Currently 81% of MPAs within the IFCA Devon and Severn area are closed to bottom-towed gear, compared to 75% in the Isles of Scilly and 40% in Cornwall. The MMO is responsible for introducing fisheries management measures to all offshore MPAs by the end of 2024. There is an increasing recognition of the need to adopt a whole site approach to MPA management for effective marine nature recovery. Contact: Carli Cocciardi [email protected]
Water quality. The year 2023 was the sixth wettest on record contributing to a higher percentage of sewage overflow spills. One hundred percent of storm overflows have now, however, been fitted with event duration monitoring devices which will allow complete coverage, real-time data and targeted improvements. Contact: [email protected]
Marine planning. ‘The Marine Planning Monitoring Surveys 2023 Two-Page Summary Report revealed that, overall, the MMO South West Marine Plan remains widely utilized by a diverse array of stakeholders for decision-making and supporting development proposals. Policies related to biodiversity and heritage are among the most frequently applied. The development of floating offshore wind turbines represents a significant technological advancement and demonstration projects are anticipated to be operational within the next few years, with further commercial deployments in the pipeline. Contact: Mae van Loef [email protected] and Ellie Hoad [email protected].’
Marine plastics. Excellent volunteer work continues in the southwest to remove plastics from the marine environment. Analysis of debris from coastal cleans in 2023 by the Clean Ocean Sailing (COS) organisation also highlighted high density polyethylene (HDPE), plastic bottles and nets and ropes to be the most commonly removed debris. Contact: Dan Wilson [email protected]; and Delia Webb [email protected]
Neri Campbell at the Marine Biological Association [email protected]
Kelly Marie-Davidson at the Plymouth Marine Laboratory [email protected]
Some key points:
This is the tenth report in this series
The South-West is the only English region currently to produce such a report
The State of the South-West Seas report has been prepared by a group of specialists working within the umbrella of the South-West Marine Ecosystems (SWME) programme. The SWME programme brings the marine and coastal community together annually to consider and communicate the changes that are taking place in our local seas.
It includes detailed chapters on oceanography and storms, plankton, the seashore and seabed, fish and turtles, coastal birds, seals, whales, dolphins and porpoises. Management chapters include fisheries, marine planning, marine protected areas, water pollution and plastics pollution.
The calm waters merged into the misty grey of the morning light. Archie cut Reel Deals engines and readied the shark rods as we began a long drift of expectation.
The five of us sent down jigs and feathers to catch fresh bait. Archie baited the circle hooks that were suspended beneath brightly coloured drinks bottles that would bob optimistically upon the ocean.
Mackerel, scad and pollock were swung on board as we drifted. We drew numbers, Peter Robinson drawing number one, Bruce Elston, number 2, Kieran (from Wales) number 3, I was number four so knew from the off that I would only do battle if we had a good day with the sharks. Toby was number five cementing the fact that it was not his day! A broken rod, lost sunglasses sealing that old comes in three saying! Fortunately Toby is a resilient sole who carries an infectious smile throughout.
Archie Porter was Skipper for the day as Reel Deal founder and owner Dan Hawkins was down South chasing tuna, skippering with Happy Days Adventure Fishing.
Archie has gained valuable experience working with Dan on Reel Deal and skippering Predator 2 before it was bought by Daniel Welch who is now embarking on his own journey with the boat.
With the rubby-dubby sending out a stream of particles and scent it was now time for a brew and to drift with wind and tide.
We were drifting over rocky reefs and we all used various jigs and lures to tempt hard fighting pollock from the clear water. Scad and the occasional jumbo sized mackerel were added to the bait stash with fresh baits added to the shark set ups from time to time.
I love the expectation of shark fishing the mystery of what lies beneath and what could be? Banter and chat flowed freely with tales of fish and the wider world. Topics from toxic politics, music, life and recipes.
Whilst the sea was mirror calm a rolling swell lifted the boat gently as the immense power of the Atlantic ocean stirred. As the mist lifted we glimpsed white water as the swells crashed into the wild and rugged North Cornish Coast.
Somewhere on the cliffs Hawkers Hut nestles high up overlooking this treacherous coastline. Robert Stephen Hawker was an eccentric clergyman who lived between 1803 and 1875. Hawker is said to have spent many hours in the hut writing poems and smoking opium. He is perhaps best remembered for his compassionate desire to provide Christian burials to shipwrecked seamen washed up on the shores. He also wrote the famous Cornish song, The Song of the Western Men” with its chorus line “ And Shall Trelawny die? / Here’s twenty thousand Cornish men / will know the reason why!’. A song that is sung by Cornish Male voice choirs with great passion. The hut is now preserved by the National Trust and is well worth a visit.
The day drifted past and after tempting several pollock I decided to change tactics. I baited two size 4 Sakuma Chinu hooks with slivers of fresh mackerel. Down into the clear water to be bounced along the rocky sea bed.
The rods sensitive tip jagged sharply and a small black bream was briefly admired before being released. Toby Bassett always keen to chase different species followed suit and soon caught three handsome bream two of which were keepers.
There was a moment of drama when a shark float bobbed and disappeared a large swirl preceding close by. The gulls and fulmars that had been bobbing in the rubby-dubby slick took off. Peter grabbed the rod apprehensively but nothing happened! Was it a wary shark, a tope or cuttle fish? The bait was damaged but the evidence inconclusive.
As the day drifted into afternoon a breeze came from the North West. We relished the blue sky and warm sunshine, the shark floats spread out perfectly in the slick and expectations grew, conditions were perfect.
Something large intercepted my tiny mackerel baits and put a serious bend in the rod before biting through the trace.
At the bow of the boat Bruce hooked a powerful tope as he bounced a large scad bait just off the seabed. A good tope of over thirty pounds appeared in the clear water and came off as Archie grabbed the leader.
A few minutes later Bruce was in action again this time bringing the tope to the boat where it was expertly netted by Archie. At 38lb it was a new personal best for Bruce.
Bruce Elston with his PB tope of 38lb
In the mean time I hooked two more tope on my small hooks and inevitably suffered bite offs. I couldn’t resist the chance of a tope and tied on a short leader, a 150lb b.s trace a 6/0 Sakuma Kong hook and sent down a side of mackerel. A few minutes later I was locked in battle the spinning rod taking on an impressive battle curve. I piled on the pressure determined to get the tope to the boat without severing the hook-length or wrapping in the mainline. A tope of over twenty pounds was soon secured safely and its image secured.
The action packed flurry of tope sport brought the day to an end all too soon. Reel Deal bounced comfortably over the lively sea past Hartland, Baggy and Morte Point the wild cliffs and coast as always pleasing to the eye. The occasional gannet was circling searching for fish.
Homeward Bound
We pondered on the lack of porbeagle, earlier in the year there had been some good days with multiple catches of shark. September is often a prime month and it is likely that they will show in numbers later in the month if of course the bait fish are there. Last year tuna arrived off the coast in late September will they arrive again? The only way of answering these questions is of course to drift in expectation.
There is a beautiful quiet moment at the end of summer, when the schools and businesses have all gone back and the roads have cleared but the air is still warm and slightly languid, and those wonderful summer memories hang hazily in the air. We have had a wonderful summer at the Arundell, with visitors from across the UK and Europe fishing, walking and enjoying the beauty of West Devon but we are savouring the quieter, calm that has now descended. The rivers are slightly low but with trout and sea trout (and some peel) taking the fly and the late summer evenings still light there is plenty of fishing to be enjoyed.
Some of the Arundell team were incredibly lucky to be invited to fish on the Snake River in Idaho this year and it was an absolute delight to experience this incredibly beautiful place and catch the lovely Yellow Cutthroat trout. In Jackson Hole we caught up with the Orvis team and what a wonderful opportunity to exchange stories and ideas and find out about fishing in another part of the world!
In mid August, we had our first Gin Tasting evening in the Arundell garden, which was a fantastic success and plans are afoot for a Whisky Tasting evening in our new Cockpit Bar…details to be confirmed so please check our social media and website. On 25th September at 7pm we are very excited to be hosting our second book event in the Tamar Room with renowned wildlife artist, Angela Harding. Her stunning book, Still Waters and Wild Waves, features illustrations of dramatic seascapes and reflective rivers and will be available for purchase after the talk. Bookings for an early supper in the Bar available from 5pm.
Ollie Passmore enjoyed a successful trip to Scotland, targeting Skate –
After a week on call for work we were buzzing to set of for our trip to NW Scotland after the Skate. It was our second attempt after a failed effort last year. luckily it happened on the first day with the rest of the trip being quite. I had the first one a 120lb male then Kody had a 157lb female and lastly Chris had a monster getting on for 200lb. we were all amazed just how hard they fight and tested us to our limits.
I was using Sakuma 150lb Supershock for leader and trace material and a 10/0 Sakuma 445 Circle hook. An awesome experience and one we wont forget in a hurry.
With strong Southerly winds forecast the planned mates trip on Predator 2 was in the balance so I was pleased when Dan Welch suggested we head up channel to fish in the shelter of Exmoor’s high cliffs. Toby Bassett and I both agreed with Dan that this was a good idea and so at 8:00am Toby and I climbed on board surprised to find that we were the only two joining Dan for the day.
It was good to have this rare chance to have plenty of space on a charter boat and to be heading up channel to grounds that I have a close affinity with having fished them many times over the years.
Dan was as always full of ideas for the day ahead and discussed a wide range of options that we could try. This was an ideal opportunity for Dan to try out a few new marks for different species. It was also perhaps good to have two anglers on board who fish in different ways. Toby is very much focussed on his species fishing whilst I tend to target larger specimens if I get the chance.
We steamed out of Ilfracombe beneath grey skies and it was good to watch the dramatic coastline pass by. The familiar shoreline of Watermouth, Combe Martin Bay and then the dramatic and towering cliffs that plunge to the sea beneath Great Hangman and Holdstone Down. We paused for a few drifts over the Copperas Rocks located off Little Hangman to no avail then headed to some sandbanks situated on the edge of the tide.
We put down large fish baits in search of tope and waited in anticipation. After ten minutes or so Toby hooked a good fish that hung heavy in the tide. The guessing game followed as Toby’s rod bent as the fish battled. The towering heather topped cliffs providing a spectacular backdrop to the action.
A tope of around twenty five pounds appeared on the surface and was safely tailed by Dans expert wielding of a wire tailor of the type once used for salmon.
This was a good start and we fished on expectantly for half an hour or so more with just a few dogfish to show.
It was time for a move and so we headed out for a drift over a few wrecks and reefs. It seemed that the bass and pollock were not feeding as our lures were ignored.
With the tide easing all the time we decided to head into the sheltered waters of Woody Bay and fish the sandbanks for ray and tope.
I dropped down a large mackerel bait and flicked out a sliver of mackerel on my spinning rod hoping for a ray or maybe even a turbot.
Toby caught a beautiful micro tope on small hooks.
My spinning rod tip nodded a couple of times and I picked up the rod feeling for the fish. Tightening the line I felt a good pull and set the hook. The light rod took on a good curve and line was pulled steadily from the reel. A game of give and take eventually resulted in a pleasing small eyed ray of around 8lb.
I decided to try a squid bait and on opening the box found that I had previously stashed a whole prawn in with the squid. Worth a try I thought and threaded on the large prawn.
A few minutes later the spinning rod signalled that something had picked up the prawn. After a similar tussle up came another small eyed ray.
As the tide eased further and no further bites materialised we decided to try out on the reefs again with the lures. A couple of small bass were caught by Dan and Toby on the first drift boosting our confidence. But this proved to be a false dawn as nothing came from the following half a dozen drifts.
We chatted about various options and decided to head back close inshore for the last hour of fishing. By now the wind that was forecast to increase later in the day was gusting strongly arriving earlier than forecast. Fortunately the direction was as predicted and although probably gusting to 40mph plus the sea remained flat.
Dan manoeuvred the boat into position anchoring so that our baits would be trundling back into some rough ground. We both fished two rods a large bait on one and smaller baits on the spinning rods. This was when Toby’s species tactics came into play with size ten hooks employed baited with tiny strips of squid and mackerel. A succession of small pouting and poor cod rattled the rod tip, proof that we were in the rough stuff.
My heavier rod tip plunged over as something grabbed the large mackerel flapper impaled upon the 8/0 hook. Several yards of line were taken from the reel as the rod absorbed powerful lunges of what we guessed correctly was a good sized conger. As is often the case the eel looked larger than the 24lb the scales were to read as it appeared in the clear water behind the boat.
Moments after this Toby hooked into another conger of perhaps 10lb that gave a great account on Toby’s lighter set up.
The boat swung to and fro on the anchor as the wind strength continued to increase and bites dried up. It seemed a good time to up anchor and head back to Ilfracombe. The boat cruised comfortably across the windswept waters of the Bristol Channel. I once again admired those towering cliffs and recalled the many tales I had been told of their history. It is well worth seeking out a copy of “ The Hidden Edge of Exmoor” a book that tells of Kester and Elizabeth Webb’s exploration of this fascinating shoreline.
We arrived back in Ilfracombe Harbour thanking skipper Dan Welch for another good day afloat exploring the rich potential of the Bristol Channel. I look forward keenly to the next adventure.
Boat anglers off Ilfracombe are enjoying some superb boat sport with bass and pollock caught over wrecks and reefs. Reel Deal Charters targeted bass with the anglers on board tempting numerous good fish topped by a 69cm specimen to the rod of Danny Watson of High Street Tackle. Danny has done a great deal to promote lure fishing in North Devon with his shop stocking a vast range of lures.
On the same day I was on board Predator 2 last Sunday on a trip with friends of the Skipper Dan Welch. We set out with the intention of fishing for shark but the conditions prevented us from reaching the prime sharking grounds. Fortunately we were able to shift our attention to other species and enjoyed great sport with bass and pollock. The best bass boated was a good fish of 67cm to the rod of Callum Gove.
Lure fishing is a growing sector of sea angling. This is in part I feel because it suits the modern sea anglers life style. The light tackle employed enables great sport with the bass, pollock and wrasse giving exciting accounts. There is no bait collection, no unpleasant odours and less pre trip preparation. Shore anglers can grab a rod reel and a bag of lures and enjoy a short session at the prime time.
It’s no secret that our piscatorial triumphs sound so much better in the telling if the heroic angler out-wits a wily foe. So we embellish our trout with fishy superpowers like intelligence and emotional guile. Even when we lose them, we’re never beaten by a run-of-the-mill fish: It was ‘big, arrogant and knew exactly what it was doing!’
I suspect it’s mostly male vanity that needs to prove its mettle in combat with a 12” fish, although with time most of us learn there isn’t a trout physically mighty enough for victory to transform us into warrior princes or princesses. So we also need clever fish to make us look good. Size isn’t everything. Is it?
And yet. Type “Think Like a Trout” into your search engine and admire the flood of results. They all agree: To catch a trout, we must first know its thoughts and so anticipate its deeds. In the telling of this eternal and epic struggle, we humans are always one step behind the fish. Trout, we are told, can outwit us.
This warning is intended to open our wallets because, back in the human world, Trout-Thinking sells. You can buy the books, subscribe to the podcasts and clickn’gift your data. It’s a thriving market that gets bigger every year. Enthusiasts dream of fluency, others monetise it and a proud few say they learnt it from a parent.
This fish-think market is distinctly weird because, at some elemental level, all these anxious, charge-card wielding anglers are worried about being out-thought by a fish. Which, I hope you agree, is a very low bar.
So what might these devious fish be capable of? The irrepressible jazz maestro and fisherman George Melly set that bar high by extending a thinking trout’s repertoire into personal harassment. He attributed “a malicious sense of humour” to a large trout that he’d lost several times over a season, effectively granting it brains, cultural sophistication and serial bitchery. It’s fair to say that a fish armed with a malicious sense of humour would have met its match in George, who had a razor-sharp wit of his own. There’s also a very old adage that advises us never to let the facts get in the way of a good story. Perhaps some seriously-minded trout-thinkers have felt persecuted by a fish, but I’m sure George wasn’t one of them.
Writer John Gierach has also made an astute observation: “The things fishermen know about trout aren’t facts but articles of faith”. I think he’s onto something.
Which, I suggest, is why Trout-Thinking is only ever found in people. Never trout.
There are many good reasons why this is a skill too far for fish. Top of the list is that trout lack the sophisticated Cerebral Cortex we use for sentient thought. So although they’re not brain-dead, they’re brain-lite. They can learn from experience (hook / bad), but no trout has ever produced anything as clever as a conscious idea, let alone one intended to outwit us.
It gets worse. Fish brains are about 7% the mass of similarly sized birds (which do have a cerebral cortex). Chicken-Thinking is, by comparison with trout, classy and sophisticated. This is all rather awkward for the trout-thinkers: If they’re struggling with a fish, they’re going to be humiliated by a chicken.
Thanks to neuroscience we know trout are hard-wired to feed reflexively, just as they do most things reflexively. So we are told they are primarily triggered to take a fly by its shape, size and position/movement in the water. They don’t think about it, they just get on with it.
Then there is the fierce competition from other fish. Survival dictates that trout eat first and ask questions later (for the trout-thinkers, that’s a metaphor). Perhaps they have a bit more reaction time in still-waters than rivers, but in both settings this urge to get there first works in our favour. We’ve all seen a fish surge a couple of meters to snatch a fly.
So if the trout are feeding freely and we’re not catching any, it’s not because they’re being capricious. Clearly, something else is going on.
This something is most likely us, the human with a rod in its hand. That and Murphy’s Law (if a thing can go wrong, it will).
Happily, we have our own super-power: We can Think Like A Human. So, we can read the river and the weather. We can choose a fly to resemble those on the water – or not, or even something stand-out different. We can consider colour, smell and sound. Or sunlight, shade, water temperature and more, all of which may set off different hard-wired feeding patterns. As can a fish’s lateral line.
Next comes by far the most important part: We must apply all our skill, knowledge and experience to put the fly in the right place on or in the water. Once there the way it moves can also seduce or repel fish. It’s not easy, perfection is unattainable and there will always be fish we can’t catch. And when we fail it’s a very lame excuse to blame a scheming trout.
We humans have opposing thumbs for casting and a huge brain-powered edge over trout. Dumbing down and projecting Trout-Think onto a fish won’t impress it, although it’s pretty good at hooking humans.
So perhaps we could stop pretending that trout see themselves as fey schemers intent on frustrating our noble designs. Heck, they don’t even know they’re fish.
The bottom line is that our ancestors emerged onto land about 400 million years ago and fish have a lot of catching up to do. And so do some people.
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Ilfracombe harbour once again ready to depart for a day aboard John Barbeary’s boat ‘Blue Fin’ with members of South Molton and District Angling Club. It doesn’t really feel like a July morning with a cool North East breeze blowing into the harbour. The predominantly grey sky seemingly typical of the summer of 2024 so far.
The sea is not too rough however and the forecast gives the wind easing throughout the day and with good fishing enjoyed on another Ilfracombe Boat last week I am optimistic for the day ahead. We all climb from the harbour steps and greet John and his deckhand Ted. Club members today include Edward Rands, Dave Hathaway, Nick Stringer, Chris Allin, Steve Edmonds and myself.
South Molton Angling Club has been established for over fifty years and has several miles of trout fishing on local rivers. Its membership of around fifty are mostly game fishers with a segment of occasional sea anglers. The club has a healthy social side with trips most months of the year with trophies awarded to recognized members achievements. All in all a friendly easy going club without a serious competitive streak.
The prospect of a slightly turbulent sea raised a few concerns about the sea anglers curse of mal-de-mer that were to prove found less. All concerned members had taken Stugeron tablets as a precaution. Discussion around previous unpleasant trips were recounted with lessons such as abstaining from alcohol the previous night recalled from observations of past excursions.
The plan for the day was to stop off on route to catch bait and then drift a few reefs for bass or pollock before dropping anchor in the hope of tope.
The feathers went down a short distance from port and strings of writhing mackerel were swung on board. Ted the friendly crewman for the day worked hard assisting with unhooking. It was interesting to listen to Ted’s wisdom as he commented upon the effectiveness of different coloured mackerel feathers. A few days previous he had noted how white feathers had proved effective during one tide with blue and silver more effective on another. The mackerel preferences are undoubtedly influenced by many factors including what they are feeding on naturally perhaps combined with light levels, water clarity and tidal state.
It seemed that all our strings of lures were working as be drifted off Ilfracombe’s rocky foreshore. Strings of mackerel were swung on board. John commented that it was like the old days when mackerel were always abundant throughout the summer months. Mackerel numbers seem to vary each year and after several years of poor numbers the last two seasons have been encouraging. It has also been noticeable that mackerel have been present throughout the winter months along with garfish.
Having caught plenty of mackerel we steamed on down channel passing the cragged slate promontory of Morte Point and the treacherous Morte Stone. The promontory of Morte Point pushes out into the Bristol Channel the rock formation running down its spine resembling that of a huge dragon immortalised in grey stone. The resulting tidal race over the Morte reef is a renowned holding place for bass with huge shoals sometimes present harassing mackerel and whitebait as gannets plunge into the resulting melee.
We pushed on down across Woolacombe Bay and its sands of gold to Baggy Point its steep cliffs the haunts of climbers and seabirds. We drifted over a couple of reefs catching a handful of pollock and a few more mackerel. It was perhaps surprising that we did not catch more fish such as bass as the huge number of birds present was a sure indication of bait fish and predators. Fish were undoubtedly present with plenty showing on the boats sounder.
A 4lb pollock for Nick Stringer
This whole job of being a skipper can be very frustrating. Finding the fish is just one part of an incredibly complex puzzle. The experienced skipper will have developed a unique gift of being able to inspire anglers with tales of past successes and explaining the lack of success with a recipe book full of valid excuses. As the tide eased John put us on a mark slightly West of Baggy and dropped the anchor.
The rod tips soon rattled to the pull of dogfish. Ed Rands hooked several bull huss and a few small conger put a bend in members rods.
Ed Rands with a bull huss from a rough ground mark
As the tide eased further towards high water John took us out to deep water , tope were our intended quarry. Once again we settled at a new mark located from Johns extensive log book of carefully jotted coordinates.
Steve Edmonds hooked what was undoubtedly a good tope that bit through his heavy mono hook link after a few minutes.
Steve Edmonds battles a fish that later bit through his trace.
A few moments later it was my turn and a good fish took off taking line from the reel. The battle ebbed and flowed with the fish hanging deep beneath the boat after its initial powerful runs. I exerted pressure and brought the tope to the boat where it was skill-fully netted by John.
The fish was carefully weighed pulling the scales to a respectful 35lb. Five minutes or so later I hooked into another tope that was a few pounds lighter.
Throughout the time at this mark a steady stream of dogfish came to the boat along with a few small huss and strap conger.
As the tidal speed increased I hooked into another fish that powered away using the tide to its advantage. This was undoubtedly a good fish and started to move against the tide a sure indication that it was an above average specimen. Eventually pressure brought the fish within view a sleek tope that hung heavy in the tide causing several anxious moments as it rolled in the leader. Fortunately I had taken the precaution of using a heavy rubbing leader of 150lb b.s mono to protect the braid mainline.
Braid is beneficial in allowing the use of lighter leads and has no stretch ensuring excellent contact with the business end. It is also extremely strong in relation to its thin diameter. Its disadvantage is its poor abrasion resistance and fineness when sorting tangled lines.
The fish was eventually scooped into the net and brought on board where it thrashed wildly before being secured carefully to remove the hook. This fish proved to be the heaviest of the day scaling 41lb. The fish swam away strongly disappearing into the clear waters from whence it had come.
A 41lb tope
With the tide now at full strength mid tide we headed back inshore to drift a few more reefs. This proved unproductive and with the tide easing John headed back up channel and anchored at another deep water mark where tope were again the intended species. A couple of small conger, small huss and plenty of dogfish rattled the rod tips. Dave Hathaway hooked a very powerful fish that put a good bend in the rod ripping several yards of line from his reel. Sadly the fish bit through the heavy mono trace of 150lb b.s after a short battle leaving Dave to ponder on what could have been.
Ed Rands with a string of mackerel
By now it was time to head back and John agreed to stop off for a few fresh mackerel close to Ilfracombe. Fortunately the mackerel were still there and we all caught enough for a delicious evening snack when we got home. Is there a better fish fresh from the sea?
Reflecting upon the day I was obviously pleased to have boated three good tope and cannot help but ponder upon my luck. It is said that luck can be cultivated and there is some truth in this. I was fortunate to secure a prime position at the stern of the boat enabling a bit more freedom as to the weight selection. The anglers at the stern can use lighter weights and trot the bait out ensuring that the fish attracted by the baits scent intercept these baits first. I chose to use larger mackerel flappers that stopped the pesky dogfish devouring the bait before the tope found it. I also opted to use a heavy duty wire trace to ensure I did not get bitten off. There is some debate regarding the pro’s and cons of wire versus heavy mono. An option is perhaps to use circle hooks that tend to hook fish in the scissors of the jaw. Used in conjunction with heavy fluorocarbon they might be an option but for me its heavy duty wire until I am convinced otherwise.
Choice of tackle when boat fishing is very much a matter of personal preference. There is balance to found between using tackle strong enough to subdue most fish hooked in a reasonable time without detracting from the joy of bringing the fish to the boat.
Anglers Eldorado’s Carp and Catfish Lake 2 is renowned for its catfish that have been stocked to over 90lb. It was these powerful and challenging fish that we were targeting on what has become an annual pilgrimage for our group.
Angling is a wonderful pastime for creating long lasting friendships with bonds formed that can often last a lifetime. I have fished with my good friend Bruce Elston on numerous occasions during recent seasons both of us sharing a lifelong obsession with angling.
Bruce invited me to join the catfish hunters at Anglers Paradise a couple of years ago. Our group consists of Mitch Andrews, his son Ben Andrews, John Hughes, Tony Ball, Bruce Elston, Alan Palmer, Richard Bull and myself.
Fishing at the venue runs for twenty four hours from midday. We had booked the lake for two days, forty eight hours to target the big catfish that lurk in the murky waters.
We met up at Bruce’s house for a brunch of bacon, fried egg and fresh bread washed down with tea and coffee. The banter flowed as we discussed tactics and caught up. Strange how we all reconnected after a twelve month gap almost as if we were reconvening after just a week or so.
Bruce had used his extensive knowledge of the venue to draw up a map showing all the productive swims and where the hotspots were. We all drew numbers out of the proverbial hat (oven glove) to decide who would fish where ensuring that those who wished to fish together could. This was all very much a case of everyone getting the best chance and making sure the whole lake was covered as this is a team effort with no intended competitive element.
I ended up fishing the East side of the lake offering a wide choice of known holding spots to cast into.
The first task upon arriving is to lug the mountain of gear required for a forty eight hour session. This is no easy task with barrows loaded to the maximum with two trips required for most.
On arrival in the swim my first task was to set up a rod to explore the swim. Casting a lead and marker float around the swim it is possible to check the depth and assess if the bottom is clear or silty etc.
Where to put the bait is based upon prior knowledge, advice, observation and that all important gut feeling. Two rods are allowed on the lake and I decided to bait up two spots spodding out generous quantities of halibut pellet in various sizes along with a few boilies of the type to be fished as bait. In this case Sticky Baits Krill and Bloodworm.
To some extent of course hotspots on these lakes are created by anglers. Spots that look good to anglers are baited up and become feeding spots for the fish. The anglers then catch fish from the spots that become popular with more anglers who add more bait ensuring the ongoing productivity of the hotspot.
We all followed the same basic plan targeting catfish with stepped up carp rigs using boilies and bolt rigs.
This whole branch of fishing is very much a case of setting traps and grabbing the rod when the fish self-hooks itself.
I don’t believe that catfish are particularly rig shy like carp which is a good job as with fish present close to 100lb subtle rigs are not practical.
There is a certain appeal to a long session a chance to relax and settle into the natural cycle of the natural world.
There is a continual sense of expectation and anticipation. At any moment the alarm could sound its harsh blip alerting the anglers as an unseen fish of unknown size tears off with the bait.
Conditions seemed close to perfect. A light breeze drifting high white clouds across the deep blue summer sky. Half a dozen buzzards soared high on thermals their mewing cry’s drifting across the lake. A family of Canada geese paraded around the lake and a mallard brood swam across the water. I thought how vulnerable they looked and wondered if the catfish ever enjoyed a duckling snack.
Late afternoon there came a cry of fish on. Ben had hooked the first cat of the session a pleasing start, 21lb.
Early evening it was time to stop for a catch up. We all wound in our rods and assembled together to enjoy fresh pizzas delivered bankside to us by Bruce Elston’s obliging family.
This was an opportunity to catch up and talk fishing and there was as always a great deal to discuss. I had probably last fished with Richard Bull from the Dam wall at Durleigh Reservoir near Bridgwater for pike. Back then we were both young men starting off on life’s hopefully long journey. Close to forty years later we had both retired from long careers, mine in the water industry and Richard’s with the Environment Agency.
A lot has changed in those forty years and we soon started to compare notes along with Alan Palmer. It was immediately apparent that we shared a deep concern regarding the dramatic decline we had seen in nature. We talked of the dramatic decline of salmon and noted the lack of swallows around the lake. The estimated insect decline of 70% over the past forty years, a lack of big pike across the Somerset levels and a collapse in the once prolific population of eels.
As anglers we are of course very aware of what is happening to the natural world. Pesticides, farming practices, climate change and an ever increasing human population all contributing to natures decline.
The conversation drifted onto the state of angling. We are perhaps creatures of our generation and have views created from our journeys. Angling perhaps reflects society.
We all reflected upon how we had started fishing for small fish serving a sort of apprenticeship before progressing to bigger specimens. It seems that many of todays young anglers arrive at the water’s edge with all the gear setting out to catch twenty pound carp straight away. Instant gratification no slow path to success. I want it all and I want it now!
We looked back fondly at our days as young specimen hunters. A time when we learned from books and pooling knowledge. No you-tube videos and ready-made rigs.
Richard reminisced about his fishing for catfish at Claydon Lake in Bedfordshire during the late eighties and early nineties. The catfish that resided in the lakes had been transferred from Woburn Abbey Lakes. Claydon Lake is situated within the grounds of a large country mansion. The large catfish were a target for budding specimen hunters of the day. Richards best catfish from the water was 35lb a fish that was at the time within the top ten catfish caught from UK waters.
We discussed Claydon Lake and other venues like Redmire Pool. Waters that have a unique status in angling history. There is perhaps a certain nostalgia amongst our generation a longing for the mystery and excitement of a bygone era.
Whilst we had discussed the undoubted decline in nature we also had to acknowledge the fact that many fish now grow far bigger. We were fishing in a lake that contains a large number of catfish far in excess of the wildest dreams of anglers back in the 1980’s. Catfish of over fifty pounds now fail to warrant a mention in the national angling press. Several waters in North Devon contain carp equivalent to the stocks that resided within Redmire’s hallowed waters.
The eel record has just been beaten, as has the roach record. Many of the British freshwater fish records have been eclipsed in recent years. The roach record is now over 4lb. The bream record stands at 22lb 11oz; I doubt many believed bream could grow to that size back in the 1980’s. The carp record is now 68lb 1oz, catfish record 143lb 14oz, perch 6lb 3oz, pike 47lb 5oz, tench 15lb 3oz, barbel 21lb 2oz, chub 9lb 5oz, crucian carp 4lb 12oz, dace 1lb 5oz, rudd 4lb 10oz and zander 21lb 5oz. All of the above records and several others have all been caught since 2000 proving perhaps that our perception of fishing’s golden era is all within our imagination.
The truth with our perception is perhaps that we have lost much of the mystery and magic? The fish are growing bigger because of an artificially created environment. Whilst truly wild fish like salmon, sea trout and eels are in an alarming spiral of decline other fish dwelling in lakes or rivers enriched by nutrients and anglers baits are growing larger.
In light of the above facts it is undoubtedly our perception of fishing that has changed. A generation is inclined to look back with rose tinted glasses, the measure of success in angling is to be measured in happiness and contentment not in the size of fish. I often state that anglers go through three main phases. At first wanting to catch fish, any fish. Then aspiring to catch bigger fish or more than other anglers. I suspect that at some point most anglers reach the stage where they are content to just go fishing. It is perhaps difficult to reach the latter stage without experiencing the first two. And as stated earlier a modern society tends to skip the first stage and go straight in to stage two.
A fact I often note is that when a bunch of anglers get together a schoolboy humour is soon rekindled as farts and bodily functions always abounds. A youthful cheer emerges which is undoubtedly one of the reasons angling is so good for mental health.
Anyway after a rather long ramble away from our trip I will reconvene on the banks of carp and Catfish 2.
The evening light descended and expectation climbed. At close to midnight my alarm screamed out and I fumbled my way to the rod. Lifting into a heavy fish for a moment or two before the hook hold gave way.
Disappointed I recast and tried to get some sleep. A few hours later at just after 3.00am I heard voices and commotion across the water. Assuming that Bruce or John had caught I reeled in my rods and made my way over to the far side of the lake.
A jubilant John was being congratulated on successfully banking a large catfish. I joined in with the jubilation witnessing the weighing of a personal best cat for John of 49lb. I secured a few images and watched the fish gently lowered back into the lake.
The rest of the night passed by without interruption except for the invasion of my swim by the geese family shortly after first light.
The dawn chorus was spectacular with a wide variety of birds contributing to the choir. The Merlin app on my phone recorded sedge warbler, carrion crow, chaffinch, wren, willow warbler, blue tit, chiff chaff, song thrush and nuthatch.
The second day drifted past and we settled into life on the lakeside. The sound of cars and farm machinery came from the nearby road reminding us of a world beyond this tranquil lake.
Knowing the size of fish present within the confines of this small lake ensured that hope of connection was never lost. I brewed regular coffee and ensured that a steady trickle of bait was going into the chosen spots within the swim.
I noticed the occasional large swirl in my swim, an indication that big fish were on the prowl. But the alarms remained silent.
As evening descended once again expectation grew surely more catfish would be caught? At around midnight my alarm bleeped frantically and I rushed from my bivvy to grab the rod. As I touched the rod handle the run stopped!
In the early hours I was answering natures call and noticed headlights further along the bank. Rich was elated to have landed a catfish of 39lb a new personal best and I believe his first catfish since the mid- nineties.
During the night light rain had fallen, resulting in droplets glistening as the new day dawned. The calm light of dawn descended upon the lake as the new day unfurled.
We all hoped for one last chance. Suddenly out of the blue came a call fish on! Ben was in action and after an exciting tussle brought a 24lb catfish to the waiting net.
Tony avoided a blank by tempting a couple of kittens float fishing worms in the margin.
Then as we started to consider packing away John on the far side of the lake was in action. I watched the drama as John piled on the pressure, trying to prevent what was undoubtedly a big fish finding sanctuary in a tangle of branches and lily’s near the Island.
When the fish was safely netted I wound in my rods and walked around to witness the weighing and get a few images of the fish in daylight. At 39lb it was another fine specimen for John.
Whilst the fishing had been slower than hoped for the company had been great. Catfish weighing 49lb, 39lb, 39lb, 24lb and 21lb is after all a pretty good result.
We said our farewells after lugging the ridiculous heap of gear up to the cars vowing to do it all again next year.
Upon reflection it had been a very enjoyable excursion catching up with friends. Some big fish had been caught and discussion had left plenty to contemplate. Izaak Walton author of The Complete Angler first published in 1653 described angling as the ‘Contemplative Mans Recreation’. Somethings never change.
